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Full Restaurant Review - 2002
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2002
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Sfoglia/Trattoria - 130 Pleasant St., , MA 02554 (508) 325-4500

Sfoglia/Trattoria RestaurantIntro
Sfoglia's stands out as a very different restaurant on the scene. Located in a non- descript building, one might easily drive right by without noticing it. The popularity of this country style Italian restaurant, with its creative assortment of, appetizers, pasta, three entrees, and vegetables is fast growing. Once through the beaded entrance, the interior of this small restaurant is very appealing and unlike any found on the island. On season the wait for tables has been a problem as reservations are not yet accepted, however, this may change (see "Other Observations"). The food is extremely interesting and the price compares with other top restaurants. Be cautioned to bring cash as credit cards are not accepted.

Sfoglia/Trattoria Restaurant

Ambiance
The ordinary appearance of this restaurant is forgotten, once you step inside through the beaded divider at the entrance. The dining area is small with wooden tables for two and four and a long wooden shelf decorated with books, lamps, and assorted pieces of art edging the entire room above the tables, creating a casual warmth. In the center of each section of the L- shaped dining room are several long, country style, tables divided by huge wooden bowls of potatoes and other vegetables so small groups of two or three can sit at the same table, or large groups, up to twelve can be accomodated. This adds to the atmosphere as you can either devote yourself to your own campanions or become acquainted with other diners. The couple adjacent to us were on the wife's first visit to . Staying at the White Elephant, where they had dined the previous night, they had heard about the excellent food served by the Italian husband and wife restauranteers. On questioning the waitress, they were amused to discover the owners, Ron and Colleen Suhanosky, were American! The overhead recessed lights and small table candles created a cozy but dim luminance which made reading the unusual menu challenging. The waitress carefully translated and described each item, encouraging us to mix and match all four sections of the menu. Small, warm, interesting, and creative sum up the over-all flavor of Sfoglia's.

Food
As soon as you sit down, the waitress brings a small bowl of delicious olives dipped in salt that are irresistible. Next she arrives asking what wine you would like, and returns to pour your choice into a straight table glass; there is none of the customary changing of various wine glasses, so typical of other establishments, setting the trattoria tone. After studying the choices of appetizers, we settled on an Italian wedding soup, which creatively combined broth and eggs and was spicy and delicious. A combination of beets and leeks, served with a warm cheese was our other selection. It was good. We tried two half plates of pasta, one with figs, walnuts, and a tastefully light tomato sauce. The other was a classic tomato and herb sauce, light and flavorful. Both were excellent. The entrees included a leg of chicken with a lightly spiced crust and a Mediterranean fish. The first was good, but the fish was extra special. The waitress brought the entire fish to the table and we watched as she filleted it before our eyes, a very challenging feat. The white fish was delicious, almost sweet, the only caution was a few tiny bones that had eluded the waitress. A spicy eggplant side dish was a fine accompaniment to the fish. The dessert arrived freshly baked from the oven, a rhubarb tart served with ice cream, absolutely the perfect ending to a very interesting meal!

Other Observations:
The wait staff was young and accommodating. Unfortunately for the couple next to us, the waitress had inadvertently forgotten to order the swordfish entree. The good natured guest allowed that he had already had plenty to eat and was both surprised and pleased to receive complimentary wine at the end of the meal, a thoughtful recognition of the error.
We had tried on two other occasions to dine at this restaurant which does not accept reservations. We were told there was nothing available for the rest of the evening, even though no one was seen waiting. Apparently you can leave your name and return for seating later which seemed to us a form of unannounced reservations. The waitress acknowledged problems with this system and told us that reservations will be accepted sometime after the re-opening in December, so call ahead to check this out. Sfoglia/Trattoria will be closed in November, for a planned trip to Italy, with even more creative cuisine promised.

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