Intro
We are often asked where to dine with a view of the water.
Of the over forty restaurants on the island, there are
very few choices. The elegant Straight Wharf is one, located
right on the harbor's edge where the HyLine ferry docks
and where, in good weather, there is outdoor dining on
the more informal deck. The nautical theme of the large
interior dining room is enhanced by high ceilings decorated
with banners, art work, and creative lighting. The menu,
not as extensive as some restaurants, has a strong emphasis
on seafood. Everything is prepared with great care and
the service is impeccable. For a night out with friends
or a special occasion, this is a favorite.
On the street side of the restaurant there is a separate
but attractive and often very lively bar, with a few tables
for casual dining; oftentimes this is packed with a youthful
crowd to overflow. Fortunately, this does not affect the
atmosphere of the main dining room.
Ambiance:
For those who have visited in the past, the famed red
sail of artist Robert Stark has a dominate place in this
attractive room. This year his large painting fills the
far wall as you enter and patrons who ask are informed,
yes, it is for sale! As you wait to be seated, the familiar
sight of the merry go round pony is welcoming. The beautiful
details noted from earlier years, are maintained with
pristine care, the rafters crossing the high ceilings
are drapped with bold blue and gold flowing banners, the
sparkling clear windows overlooking the harbor and courtyard,
and the striking flower arrangements. The white table
cloths, carefully placed recessed lights and candlelight
create a room that is one of the loveliest dining rooms
on the island.
The night we visited in early June was gloomy, viewed
through a rainy mist, so the outdoor deck was not in use.
This popular warm summer evening option has one distraction,
ice cream eaters wandering on the walkfront directly in
front of the restaurant deck. The atmophere inside was
filled with warmth and charm and the disappointing weather
outside was quickly forgotten.
Food:

We were pleased
to note that the Straight Wharf has not succumbed to
the recent trend of offering too many appetizers, often
at half the price of the entrees. Five or six choices
seems ample, although we did hear one patron ask about
more salads. Our choice, the arugula salad with crunchy
organic beets, delicate greens and a garlic cheese toasted
flat bread was wonderful! The curried mussel soup "cappuccino"
was outstanding with the curry providing that extra
spice without being overwhelming. The sour dough bread,
clearly homemade, had the wonderful crunchy crust and
chewy texture that kept us reaching for more.
There were six entrees that evening, four seafood, along
with organic chicken with spring vegetables and a rib
eye served with baby vegetables and a red wine sauce.
The seafood choices were: Lobster served with asparagus
and escargot butter, Halibut with wild morels, favas,
garlic chive, and spaetzle, Georgian Bank Cod loin with
local clams, spicy sausage and fingerling potatoes and
Soft Shelled Crabs BLT (bacon, lettuce and tomato garnish)
and sweet peas in a ginger emulsion.
We selected the last two which arrived wonderfully presented.
The cod was excellent with just the proper interesting
additions to make this bland fish very flavorful. Two
soft shelled crabs were also very good, but the chef's
addition of bacon, we thought, detracted from the delicate
flavor of the crab so wonderful on its own, a culinary
trend we have noticed at other restaurants.
The dessert selection was spectacular. It was hard to
choose between coconut souffle with pineapple sauce,
a warm french apple tort with muscat sorbet, creme brulee,
a rhubarb napoleon with strawberry rhubarb sauce, warm
Valrhona chocolate tart with orange creamsicle sauce,
or white chocolate gelato with chocolate cognac sauce.
Both the souffle and chocolate tart required twenty
minute preparation, but we were in no hurry. We sipped
coffee while we waited enjoying the ambiance and watching
a ferry depart. When the tart arrived along with the
apple tort, we were not disappointed. The apple slices
on the rich tort, accompanied by the sorbet, was marvelous.
The warm soft inside of the chocolate tart, enveloped
by the chocolate and accompanying orange outside, was
perfect.
Other Observations:
The dining room was empty when we arrived. We
requested seating at one of the three window tables
overlooking the deck and harbor, but all were reserved.
If you have a specific table in mind, request it when
you make your reservation. Our table for four, angled
so we both had a fine view, was quite satisfactory.
Patrons for two of the window tables did not arrive
until an hour later; the third table remained vacant
during our two hour visit. We were impressed that the
hostess remembered our request and apologized as we
were departing. Our table we assured her was most appealing.
The wait staff was young, appealing, and very professional.
Silver is adjusted as the servings proceed, replaced
from a linen lined tray and the table is carefully crumbed
before dessert. Casual dress was again observed, here
as elsewhere with few exceptions, giving pause to wonder
how long the elegant service would outclass the patrons.
Our initial impression was that the prices were quite
high, right up there with the top on . We were
surprised when we checked our review of two years ago
and found the appetizers and desserts are less today
and the entrees exactly the same as the earlier prices.
The half empty restaurant may reflect the endless rain
of the spring or perhaps just the beginning of the season.
We wish Straight Wharf a spectacular season; this fine
restaurant deserves it! |