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2003 Full Restaurant Review - Straight Wharf
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Straight WharfIntro
We are often asked where to dine with a view of the water. Of the over forty restaurants on the island, there are very few choices. The elegant Straight Wharf is one, located right on the harbor's edge where the HyLine ferry docks and where, in good weather, there is outdoor dining on the more informal deck. The nautical theme of the large interior dining room is enhanced by high ceilings decorated with banners, art work, and creative lighting. The menu, not as extensive as some restaurants, has a strong emphasis on seafood. Everything is prepared with great care and the service is impeccable. For a night out with friends or a special occasion, this is a favorite.

On the street side of the restaurant there is a separate but attractive and often very lively bar, with a few tables for casual dining; oftentimes this is packed with a youthful crowd to overflow. Fortunately, this does not affect the atmosphere of the main dining room.

Ambiance:5 Star!!!
For those who have visited in the past, the famed red sail of artist Robert Stark has a dominate place in this attractive room. This year his large painting fills the far wall as you enter and patrons who ask are informed, yes, it is for sale! As you wait to be seated, the familiar sight of the merry go round pony is welcoming. The beautiful details noted from earlier years, are maintained with pristine care, the rafters crossing the high ceilings are drapped with bold blue and gold flowing banners, the sparkling clear windows overlooking the harbor and courtyard, and the striking flower arrangements. The white table cloths, carefully placed recessed lights and candlelight create a room that is one of the loveliest dining rooms on the island.

The night we visited in early June was gloomy, viewed through a rainy mist, so the outdoor deck was not in use. This popular warm summer evening option has one distraction, ice cream eaters wandering on the walkfront directly in front of the restaurant deck. The atmophere inside was filled with warmth and charm and the disappointing weather outside was quickly forgotten.

Food: 4.5 Star
Straight Wharf
We were pleased to note that the Straight Wharf has not succumbed to the recent trend of offering too many appetizers, often at half the price of the entrees. Five or six choices seems ample, although we did hear one patron ask about more salads. Our choice, the arugula salad with crunchy organic beets, delicate greens and a garlic cheese toasted flat bread was wonderful! The curried mussel soup "cappuccino" was outstanding with the curry providing that extra spice without being overwhelming. The sour dough bread, clearly homemade, had the wonderful crunchy crust and chewy texture that kept us reaching for more.

There were six entrees that evening, four seafood, along with organic chicken with spring vegetables and a rib eye served with baby vegetables and a red wine sauce. The seafood choices were: Lobster served with asparagus and escargot butter, Halibut with wild morels, favas, garlic chive, and spaetzle, Georgian Bank Cod loin with local clams, spicy sausage and fingerling potatoes and Soft Shelled Crabs BLT (bacon, lettuce and tomato garnish) and sweet peas in a ginger emulsion.

We selected the last two which arrived wonderfully presented. The cod was excellent with just the proper interesting additions to make this bland fish very flavorful. Two soft shelled crabs were also very good, but the chef's addition of bacon, we thought, detracted from the delicate flavor of the crab so wonderful on its own, a culinary trend we have noticed at other restaurants.

The dessert selection was spectacular. It was hard to choose between coconut souffle with pineapple sauce, a warm french apple tort with muscat sorbet, creme brulee, a rhubarb napoleon with strawberry rhubarb sauce, warm Valrhona chocolate tart with orange creamsicle sauce, or white chocolate gelato with chocolate cognac sauce. Both the souffle and chocolate tart required twenty minute preparation, but we were in no hurry. We sipped coffee while we waited enjoying the ambiance and watching a ferry depart. When the tart arrived along with the apple tort, we were not disappointed. The apple slices on the rich tort, accompanied by the sorbet, was marvelous. The warm soft inside of the chocolate tart, enveloped by the chocolate and accompanying orange outside, was perfect.

Other Observations:
The dining room was empty when we arrived. We requested seating at one of the three window tables overlooking the deck and harbor, but all were reserved. If you have a specific table in mind, request it when you make your reservation. Our table for four, angled so we both had a fine view, was quite satisfactory. Patrons for two of the window tables did not arrive until an hour later; the third table remained vacant during our two hour visit. We were impressed that the hostess remembered our request and apologized as we were departing. Our table we assured her was most appealing.

The wait staff was young, appealing, and very professional. Silver is adjusted as the servings proceed, replaced from a linen lined tray and the table is carefully crumbed before dessert. Casual dress was again observed, here as elsewhere with few exceptions, giving pause to wonder how long the elegant service would outclass the patrons.

Our initial impression was that the prices were quite high, right up there with the top on . We were surprised when we checked our review of two years ago and found the appetizers and desserts are less today and the entrees exactly the same as the earlier prices. The half empty restaurant may reflect the endless rain of the spring or perhaps just the beginning of the season. We wish Straight Wharf a spectacular season; this fine restaurant deserves it!

Our Rating

Ambiance
5 Star!!!

Food
4.5 Star
Service
5 Star!!!
Price
$$$$
Straight Wharf Web Site
Tel: 508-228-4499 6 Harbor Square, , MA 02554

2001 Review >


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